I´m wrapping up a two month holiday and I can honestly say I´m ready to get home. It has been a wonderful and exciting adventure- with a new job and a new niece along the way, but I´m craving familiarity, home cooked food and a constant bed.
I enjoyed my days in Arequipa, a truly beautiful city and spent a night away touring the Colca canyon. I changed my idea of exploring the edge of the Peruvian jungle at the last minute, due to various warnings of drug lords and extreme rain and found myself headed to the northern beach town of Huanchaco- near Trujillo. Not without a stop over in Lima first and a tour of the city with my new friend Jose. It´s quite a nice place if you´re ever in the area for more than a few hours I´d recommend checking the place out.
The past few days in Huanchaco have been spent doing virtually nothing. And that´s about how I planned it. Apart from reading, walking the beach, sleeping and eating ceviche.... that just about sums up the end of my travel adventures for a while.
I´m on my way back to Lima tonight (last overnight bus for a while... YEA!) to meet up once again with my friend Nora. We seem to be swapping places yet again- her on her way back to Cajamarca after holiday seasons state side, and I back north, plum tuckered out after whirling myself through a bit of the South American continent.
It has truly been amazing... I´d recommend to anyone to pack up the duffle and hit the trails.
Until you can... I´ll be working a desk job, so feel free to write about it!
LOVE AND HUGS-
jennyj
14 January 2009
06 January 2009
Happy New Year!
Wow, as I re-read my last blog entry it feels like ages ago that I wrote those words and experienced those feelings. I have done so much and walked so many steps since then, hell I even have a new niece and it's a new year!!
Christmas Eve and Christmas Day passed brilliantly in Cusco. Probably the only time I've enjoy falafel for Christmas dinner and experienced so much rain, but I was with dear friends and ate loads of food so in a sense it was similar to the events back home.
Christina and I left for our Lares Trek on the 29th. There are many hikes and treks weaving their way in and around Machu Picchu and though we didn´t do the traditional Incan Trail, I think we might have got the better end of the deal. We began by visiting various Incan sites in the Sacred Valley (Pisac and Ollantaytambo) as well as woman´s traditional weaving project- learning of their traditional dyes and weaving styles... very interesting for me. We stayed the night in Ollantaytambo and spent 3 days walking through high mountains, valleys and in and around Andean villages and potato fields. Christina and I joined a group of 10 travelers and spent 2 nights in the mountains, seeing no other tour groups; only local people in their colorful ponchos working in their potato fields, herding their llamas and alpacas and watching curiously as the group of plastic poncho wearing gringos traipsed through their landscape. The highest pass we crossed was 4200 m. High enough that I was gasping for breath in the middle of the nights and dreaming of stealing the O2 tank off our ambulance burro named Tortillo. We spent New Years Eve huddled in our dining tent drinking warm wine, wearing yellow underwear (yes, all of us to bring in good luck..) and inventing our new years resolutions for 09. Most of us were actually in bed by 8.30pm, but I awoke 6 minutes to midnight to pee in the rain, so Christina and I shared a new years kiss, made our 3 wishes and fell back into our lucid dreams.
Our last night of the trip we spent in Machu Picchu Town, now called Aguas Calientes, and awoke before the sun to take a train up to the ruins. After many days with more llamas than people, the overwhelming tourism at the ruins was a little staggering for most of us, but regardless we managed to take in this sacred site, that the Spanish never found, with enjoyment and awe. We arrived early enough to climb the neighboring mountain of Wayna Picchu for an over view of the Machu Picchu ruins below. The many Incan stone steps up Wayna Picchu gave us a taste of what the Incan Trail is like, and I must say I think I prefer rambling grassy hillsides. We made wonderful friends with our group and enjoyed many laughs together. As we were taking the train back to Ollantaytambo and busing out of the sacred area, a huge double rainbow arched over us and we drove under it. Sure sign of a wonderful year ahead.
Not pausing for a minute, Christina and I were off and running (or busing actually) south to Puno, the lake side town on the edge of Lago Titicaca... the highest navigable lake at 3810 m. We spent an afternoon in the pouring rain and met up with friends from Cusco to enjoy dinner and drinks and awoke to a perfectly clear and sunny day to boat across the lake and explore a few islands on the lake. Such interesting cultures are preserved here. La Isla Taquile hosts a socialist community that is still going strong today. The people of the island live and work in community, hold weekly community meetings and abide by three rules: don´t be lazy, don´t lie and don´t steal. There you go! These come from the Incan rules of: love, teach and learn. I think our societies can learn a lot from these simple communities. As we walked across the island and caught the sun shimmering on the water below, I felt like I was in the Mediterranean. A truly gorgeous day!
We then boated over to the island of Amantanì where we met our host families and stayed the night, learning of the traditional dances, dress, farming and culture on the island. While some of our group played soccer (I tried my best but could hardly breath at that altitude), I hiked to the top of the island catching great views of the snow capped mountains of Bolivia to the East and the sun setting over the islands on the lake to the West. Very magical indeed.
We returned to Puno via Uros, the floating islands, and learned how the traditional people lived and build houses on floating islands of grass reeds growing on the lake. Another amazing feat of mankind!
Today I find myself in Arequipa, a town in the south of Peru near Colca Canyon, deeper than the Grand Canyon I´m told. The area is also surrounded by volcanoes. Today I visited a mummy, Sarita, over 500 years old. A small girl that was sacrificed to the mountain gods to protect the area from natural disasters. She is on display, while her fellow (and better known) mummy Juanita is off display for preservation. Very interesting indeed.
And on that note, I think I´ll make my way out of this internet cafe and back into the sunlight before it disappears for the day.
I hope this finds you well... be well...
Christmas Eve and Christmas Day passed brilliantly in Cusco. Probably the only time I've enjoy falafel for Christmas dinner and experienced so much rain, but I was with dear friends and ate loads of food so in a sense it was similar to the events back home.
Christina and I left for our Lares Trek on the 29th. There are many hikes and treks weaving their way in and around Machu Picchu and though we didn´t do the traditional Incan Trail, I think we might have got the better end of the deal. We began by visiting various Incan sites in the Sacred Valley (Pisac and Ollantaytambo) as well as woman´s traditional weaving project- learning of their traditional dyes and weaving styles... very interesting for me. We stayed the night in Ollantaytambo and spent 3 days walking through high mountains, valleys and in and around Andean villages and potato fields. Christina and I joined a group of 10 travelers and spent 2 nights in the mountains, seeing no other tour groups; only local people in their colorful ponchos working in their potato fields, herding their llamas and alpacas and watching curiously as the group of plastic poncho wearing gringos traipsed through their landscape. The highest pass we crossed was 4200 m. High enough that I was gasping for breath in the middle of the nights and dreaming of stealing the O2 tank off our ambulance burro named Tortillo. We spent New Years Eve huddled in our dining tent drinking warm wine, wearing yellow underwear (yes, all of us to bring in good luck..) and inventing our new years resolutions for 09. Most of us were actually in bed by 8.30pm, but I awoke 6 minutes to midnight to pee in the rain, so Christina and I shared a new years kiss, made our 3 wishes and fell back into our lucid dreams.
Our last night of the trip we spent in Machu Picchu Town, now called Aguas Calientes, and awoke before the sun to take a train up to the ruins. After many days with more llamas than people, the overwhelming tourism at the ruins was a little staggering for most of us, but regardless we managed to take in this sacred site, that the Spanish never found, with enjoyment and awe. We arrived early enough to climb the neighboring mountain of Wayna Picchu for an over view of the Machu Picchu ruins below. The many Incan stone steps up Wayna Picchu gave us a taste of what the Incan Trail is like, and I must say I think I prefer rambling grassy hillsides. We made wonderful friends with our group and enjoyed many laughs together. As we were taking the train back to Ollantaytambo and busing out of the sacred area, a huge double rainbow arched over us and we drove under it. Sure sign of a wonderful year ahead.
Not pausing for a minute, Christina and I were off and running (or busing actually) south to Puno, the lake side town on the edge of Lago Titicaca... the highest navigable lake at 3810 m. We spent an afternoon in the pouring rain and met up with friends from Cusco to enjoy dinner and drinks and awoke to a perfectly clear and sunny day to boat across the lake and explore a few islands on the lake. Such interesting cultures are preserved here. La Isla Taquile hosts a socialist community that is still going strong today. The people of the island live and work in community, hold weekly community meetings and abide by three rules: don´t be lazy, don´t lie and don´t steal. There you go! These come from the Incan rules of: love, teach and learn. I think our societies can learn a lot from these simple communities. As we walked across the island and caught the sun shimmering on the water below, I felt like I was in the Mediterranean. A truly gorgeous day!
We then boated over to the island of Amantanì where we met our host families and stayed the night, learning of the traditional dances, dress, farming and culture on the island. While some of our group played soccer (I tried my best but could hardly breath at that altitude), I hiked to the top of the island catching great views of the snow capped mountains of Bolivia to the East and the sun setting over the islands on the lake to the West. Very magical indeed.
We returned to Puno via Uros, the floating islands, and learned how the traditional people lived and build houses on floating islands of grass reeds growing on the lake. Another amazing feat of mankind!
Today I find myself in Arequipa, a town in the south of Peru near Colca Canyon, deeper than the Grand Canyon I´m told. The area is also surrounded by volcanoes. Today I visited a mummy, Sarita, over 500 years old. A small girl that was sacrificed to the mountain gods to protect the area from natural disasters. She is on display, while her fellow (and better known) mummy Juanita is off display for preservation. Very interesting indeed.
And on that note, I think I´ll make my way out of this internet cafe and back into the sunlight before it disappears for the day.
I hope this finds you well... be well...
24 December 2008
Back in the land of over 4,000 varieties of potatoes..
Though a lot colder and listening to the patter of rain on the rooftop, I´m happy to be back in Peru and with my good friend Christina for a spell. My last few days in Argentina where spectacular. I splurged on a hotel with a pool up in Iguazú and definitely got my money´s worth. Visiting the falls of Iguazù is something I won´t soon forget. Purely spectacular and though I´ve taken loads of photos and a few videos none of them can begin to do justice to the feeling of watching that amount of water surge over cliffs, falling into oblivion-- with birds dancing in the spray and rainbows arching over it all. Really an amazing place.
An official bus-ride from hell later and I was back in BA for my last night and off again yesterday flying to Peru. My travels alone where a lot of things: exciting, beautiful, stressful, relaxing and full of beautiful and friendly people along the way. Though I must say nothing compares to reuniting with a good friend, talking non-stop and laughing your way through dinner. I´m excited to be here in Cusco with Christina for Navidad. She´s already been here a week and has loads of friends and invitations for our few days before we head out on our trek. Tonight- La Noche Buena- we´re lucky enough to have an invite to a families home. I´m waging my bets on pollo, arroz, papas, y panetòn. Should be festive and delicious!
I hope where ever life has landed you this day you are happy, healthy, warm and surrounded by love and hugs from many dear ones.
¡¡Fiestejar Bien!!
An official bus-ride from hell later and I was back in BA for my last night and off again yesterday flying to Peru. My travels alone where a lot of things: exciting, beautiful, stressful, relaxing and full of beautiful and friendly people along the way. Though I must say nothing compares to reuniting with a good friend, talking non-stop and laughing your way through dinner. I´m excited to be here in Cusco with Christina for Navidad. She´s already been here a week and has loads of friends and invitations for our few days before we head out on our trek. Tonight- La Noche Buena- we´re lucky enough to have an invite to a families home. I´m waging my bets on pollo, arroz, papas, y panetòn. Should be festive and delicious!
I hope where ever life has landed you this day you are happy, healthy, warm and surrounded by love and hugs from many dear ones.
¡¡Fiestejar Bien!!
17 December 2008
How much can you pack into one day?
It seem like a lot when I think back...
Mendoza is a nice city. I felt I stayed long enough to get a feel for the place before rushing off on the next bus. I did the tour of wineries on bicycle with Fabio from Italy. It was blazing hot and even the wind couldn´t cool us down. Along with wineries we were able to visit a chocolate and liquor factory as well as an olive plantation. Those were actually more interesting to me!
I then had to plan out my strategy for the job interview I had back home in WY. All things considered it went fairly well, and I treated myself to a haircut from Christian down the street (or maybe I treated everyone else... as I´ve been looking pretty shabby for the last few weeks..)
An overnight bus later- I found myself in Còrdoba this morning and decided to spend the day in Alta Gracias which is an hour outside of town. Ernesto Guevara spent most of his childhood here, so I toured the home of Che this morning and have been kicking around this lazy little town since. On my way back to Còrdoba for another night bus up to Puerto Iguazù where I´ll be able to relax for my last few days in the country.
Still sweating, but still happy. Hope you are too (at least happy that is...)
besos..
Mendoza is a nice city. I felt I stayed long enough to get a feel for the place before rushing off on the next bus. I did the tour of wineries on bicycle with Fabio from Italy. It was blazing hot and even the wind couldn´t cool us down. Along with wineries we were able to visit a chocolate and liquor factory as well as an olive plantation. Those were actually more interesting to me!
I then had to plan out my strategy for the job interview I had back home in WY. All things considered it went fairly well, and I treated myself to a haircut from Christian down the street (or maybe I treated everyone else... as I´ve been looking pretty shabby for the last few weeks..)
An overnight bus later- I found myself in Còrdoba this morning and decided to spend the day in Alta Gracias which is an hour outside of town. Ernesto Guevara spent most of his childhood here, so I toured the home of Che this morning and have been kicking around this lazy little town since. On my way back to Còrdoba for another night bus up to Puerto Iguazù where I´ll be able to relax for my last few days in the country.
Still sweating, but still happy. Hope you are too (at least happy that is...)
besos..
14 December 2008
and what HAVE I been up to?
On a whim I changed my plans of touring the North of Argentina and bought a bus ticket to Bariloche- the Tahoe of Argentina. All things considered a 20 hr bus ride in Argentina isn´t all that bad. I made it to Bariloche in time to orient myself, walk the streets and sunburn my shoulders. The next day I was off on a 22 km walk to refugio Frey up in the mountains and managed wear all my weather gear. I guess that is the way of Patagonia... or so I´m told. Never trust the weather forecast... Though the mtn and lake views consisted only of fog and rain, it was a nice hike and fun chatting w- the other stranded hikers and climbers at the refugio. After a bit of shared matè and some good eats, I was hiking back to town- desending amist all kinds of varying landscape and foliage.
I hopped the next bust to El Bolsòn the following day and ¨hung w- the hippies¨ for a few nights. Though El Bolsòn didn´t produce as many hippies as the guide book proclaimed, it was a nice town amidst beautiful mtns bordering on Chile. I met a fellow traveler from SF and together we hiked, laughed, dranks local brews and swore about our blistered feet. Mikel... may you find your retreat in the days to come... Thanks for the fun afternoon...
I was again aboard an overnight bus and today find myself in Mendoza, Argentina. Wine country if you will. Though I´ve recently sampled the Malbec the region has to offer with dinner- tomorrow I go on the bike around wine tour of the region.
Today was spent arranging myself in a hostel, scouring the town for what it has to offer on Sundays (virtually nothing...), and catching a sweet tandem paraglide flight that lasted approximately 31 minutes. Little did I know this was ¨the best place in Latin America¨ to catch a flight. With glimps´ over the hills into Chile and stunning tranquillo views of the town at 2100 m.- it was definitely well worth it! My guide Edwardo seemed psyched as well.
I will sleep well tonight- and may you as well.
Til again...
I hopped the next bust to El Bolsòn the following day and ¨hung w- the hippies¨ for a few nights. Though El Bolsòn didn´t produce as many hippies as the guide book proclaimed, it was a nice town amidst beautiful mtns bordering on Chile. I met a fellow traveler from SF and together we hiked, laughed, dranks local brews and swore about our blistered feet. Mikel... may you find your retreat in the days to come... Thanks for the fun afternoon...
I was again aboard an overnight bus and today find myself in Mendoza, Argentina. Wine country if you will. Though I´ve recently sampled the Malbec the region has to offer with dinner- tomorrow I go on the bike around wine tour of the region.
Today was spent arranging myself in a hostel, scouring the town for what it has to offer on Sundays (virtually nothing...), and catching a sweet tandem paraglide flight that lasted approximately 31 minutes. Little did I know this was ¨the best place in Latin America¨ to catch a flight. With glimps´ over the hills into Chile and stunning tranquillo views of the town at 2100 m.- it was definitely well worth it! My guide Edwardo seemed psyched as well.
I will sleep well tonight- and may you as well.
Til again...
08 December 2008
Madonna & Vos
As I landed in Argentina and was traveling into the heart of Buenos Aires I remembered why I had wanted so badly to visit this country. The use of vos! Few countries use this very informal form of ´you´ and Guatemala and Argentina are 2 of them. How exciting is it to see billboards and hear comments in vos!
Though I came down to SA in time for summer, I hadn´t yet felt it until arriving to Argentina. The long daylight hours and warm humid days... summer is here at last!!
I found my way to my friends Keller and Megan´s apartment (who were fresh out of a fútbol match) and we went out for dinner (midnight local time). And within 24 hrs of landing in this beautiful country I was amidst throngs of people waiting for Madonna to appear on stage. We were able to snag some general, ground level tickets and see a legend perform for a crowd that truly loves her. And incidentely- she´s filming for her DVD here in Argentina, so all those Madonna fans out there... when you watch the DVD... I´m wearing a blue shirt.
Though I haven´t yet made my way too far into this country I´m loving what I see. It seems to me the perfect collision of crazy, uncertain and care free Latin America with the Euro-American modernism and roots that I know. Oh and the accent! Nothing I love more than experiencing a new twist and slur to the Spanish language I´m continually trying to perfect.
I´m off on the bus to Bariloche. Until next time...
Though I came down to SA in time for summer, I hadn´t yet felt it until arriving to Argentina. The long daylight hours and warm humid days... summer is here at last!!
I found my way to my friends Keller and Megan´s apartment (who were fresh out of a fútbol match) and we went out for dinner (midnight local time). And within 24 hrs of landing in this beautiful country I was amidst throngs of people waiting for Madonna to appear on stage. We were able to snag some general, ground level tickets and see a legend perform for a crowd that truly loves her. And incidentely- she´s filming for her DVD here in Argentina, so all those Madonna fans out there... when you watch the DVD... I´m wearing a blue shirt.
Though I haven´t yet made my way too far into this country I´m loving what I see. It seems to me the perfect collision of crazy, uncertain and care free Latin America with the Euro-American modernism and roots that I know. Oh and the accent! Nothing I love more than experiencing a new twist and slur to the Spanish language I´m continually trying to perfect.
I´m off on the bus to Bariloche. Until next time...
05 December 2008
The area around Huaraz, Peru....
is what you get when you mix the cultivated hills of Guatemala and a similar people, the rock walls, rain, and sheep of Ireland, the sheer cliffs of Yosemite with the trees and foliage of the Pacific Northwest (and maybe a dusting of Sinks Canyon- just for fun)-- ok, ok- and throw some snow capped Swiss Alpes in for good measure. There are many parts of this area that remind me of my time in Ecuador as well. Pero es un poco obvio- that´s like saying South Dakota is a bit like North Dakota, or Kansas is a quite similar to Nebraska. Only the hard core locals note the differences. In any case- I´m enjoying my days in the heartland of the Andes. I´ve been staying in the city of Huaraz which lies between the Cordillera Blanca and the Cordillera Negra. El Parque Nacional Huascarán is a few hrs by car, taxi or combi away. We have had a week full of mtn adventures and try as I might- acclimatizing to this altitude truly is a challenge for this girl straight off the California coasts. I´ve been loading my body with as much Matè de Coca that I can get my hands on, but my digestion has been slow and my body tired. Regardless Nora, Meche and I have done our best to track down tours and hikes of the local area. The first day we visited the famous Pastoruri glacier. Like all other glaciers the globe over, this one is melting at an alarming rate. Though the landscape and people living up there above 5000 m. gave us enough to experience as we slowly crept up to the base of the glacier.
The next day we decided to do a small hike as the alitude was affecting and rain and snow was in the air. We got ourselves up to Lagunas Llanganuco and did a small hike around the lake and back down the hill a ways through a fairyland forest.
Feeling a bit accustomed to the land of little oxygen, we set out the following day to Lago 69 with a some Frenchmen from our hostel (um... seriously). Luck wasn´t on their side however and their taxi was stopped for over an hr by the Police. We didn´t realize this and went on without them. We lucked out with a clear, sunny day, and the views were amazing. Combine green grass, grazing cows, steep cliffs, rugged trails, white mtn tops and very little oxygen. The last few km to the lake were tough. As we got closer to 4600 m. it was literally one step at a time. I think Budda said, "Just do one more forever." Those were the words that brought me to the edge of the blue lake below the glacier. A truly amazing place. Oh and the french guys did eventually arrive at the lake (after nearly running up the mtn) just as we were departing. On our way down we were crossing an avalanche path that we had previously gone over and Meche commented that a guy at the lake had mentioned it had occured only 4 days beforehand. Hummm...
After a good meal and a night´s rest, Meche and I decided on a tour to the ruins of Chavín (Nora´s sore throat kept her in Huaraz for a day of R&R). The day was brilliant. We crossed over into the Cordillera Negra and were able to see a whole different landscape. This place truly amazes me. The ruins of Chavín that we toured were from a civilization speculating to be 1200 BC. There were many galleries underground that we were able to tour that went on and on. And though it was a 3 hr ride each way, the hill sides, the strong mtn souls of the Andes, the grazing sheep, llamas and cattle, the rock walls and small communities of chosas (stone and thatch huts) and the magnificant mtn peaks surrounding were plenty to keep my gaze constantly intrigued.
Enough said- this is definitely one of the most beautiful places I´ve ever been to. Though I haven´t been to that many places... I haven´t been to that few either.
I´m off on an overnight bus to Lima tonight and flying to Buenos Aires tomorrow. Look out!
(Oh and I´m taking loads of pictures and will hopefully have time to download some soon... stay tuned)
The next day we decided to do a small hike as the alitude was affecting and rain and snow was in the air. We got ourselves up to Lagunas Llanganuco and did a small hike around the lake and back down the hill a ways through a fairyland forest.
Feeling a bit accustomed to the land of little oxygen, we set out the following day to Lago 69 with a some Frenchmen from our hostel (um... seriously). Luck wasn´t on their side however and their taxi was stopped for over an hr by the Police. We didn´t realize this and went on without them. We lucked out with a clear, sunny day, and the views were amazing. Combine green grass, grazing cows, steep cliffs, rugged trails, white mtn tops and very little oxygen. The last few km to the lake were tough. As we got closer to 4600 m. it was literally one step at a time. I think Budda said, "Just do one more forever." Those were the words that brought me to the edge of the blue lake below the glacier. A truly amazing place. Oh and the french guys did eventually arrive at the lake (after nearly running up the mtn) just as we were departing. On our way down we were crossing an avalanche path that we had previously gone over and Meche commented that a guy at the lake had mentioned it had occured only 4 days beforehand. Hummm...
After a good meal and a night´s rest, Meche and I decided on a tour to the ruins of Chavín (Nora´s sore throat kept her in Huaraz for a day of R&R). The day was brilliant. We crossed over into the Cordillera Negra and were able to see a whole different landscape. This place truly amazes me. The ruins of Chavín that we toured were from a civilization speculating to be 1200 BC. There were many galleries underground that we were able to tour that went on and on. And though it was a 3 hr ride each way, the hill sides, the strong mtn souls of the Andes, the grazing sheep, llamas and cattle, the rock walls and small communities of chosas (stone and thatch huts) and the magnificant mtn peaks surrounding were plenty to keep my gaze constantly intrigued.
Enough said- this is definitely one of the most beautiful places I´ve ever been to. Though I haven´t been to that many places... I haven´t been to that few either.
I´m off on an overnight bus to Lima tonight and flying to Buenos Aires tomorrow. Look out!
(Oh and I´m taking loads of pictures and will hopefully have time to download some soon... stay tuned)
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